Darts have a unique role in clothing. The obvious reason for adding darts would be for fitting purposes, but they are also used as a design element. After you try on your muslin, you might find that you need to add additional darts to the front or back waist – this is common if you have a tiny waist.
Any easy way to determine if you will need to add darts is to measure your waist and hips. A standard pattern will have the waist and hips with a 10 inch difference.
For example: your natural waist measurement is 26″ and your hips are 40″
A standard pattern would have 40″ hips with a 30″ waist, you would probably need to add 2 darts in order to take in that extra 4″ or your waistband would have a big gap. Get the idea 🙂
TRANSFERRING DARTS TO THE FABRIC
- Start by clipping small notches at the waistband at each dart location: a snip at each dart opening.
- Place a pin through all the layers of muslin and fabric at the tip of the dart
- On the wrong side of the fabric, find the pin marking the tip of the dart
- Fold the fabric with right sides together at the dart location
- Match up the snips at the waistline
Sewing the Darts
- Start stitching at the largest part of the dart
- When you get toward the tip of the dart, instead of back-stitching, shorten the stitch length and stitch. This is less bulk than back-stitching.
Pressing is the most important part of sewing! Here is a “Dressmaker Ham”. On the main side of the pressing ham, the curve matches the curve of a dart. Why not just press the dart flat on the ironing board? Because the point of the dart is to accommodate your curves, so you need to press the same curve. Remember to use a lot of steam and the tailors clapper for a crisp edge.
Angela Wolf’s Weekly Facebook Live Show … Lets Talk Dart’s
In case you missed last week’s show, I discussed fitting darts on a dress form and couture sewing tips for altering the curve of the dart for your shape. Click on the video below …
Fringe Skirt Sewalong
It’s not too late to join the fringe skirt sewalong! Here is the full list of lessons. See you in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group for comments and questions! Can’t wait to see your skirts coming together!!!
The Fringe Skirt Sewalong Schedule:
- Fabric & Sourcing (February 10. 2017)
- Fitting & Patternhacking (February 16. 2017)
- Cutting & Prep (February 21. 2017)
- All About Darts (February 23. 2017)
- Quilting the Lining (February 28. 2017)
- Invisible Zipper’s (March 2. 2017)
- Waistbands (March 7. 2017)
- Hemming & Fringe (March 9. 2017)
- Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group!
How to Sew the Front Placket It's Sew Easy TV's Shirt Dress Sewalong - Part 2 Tips for Attaching Interfacing Pressing fusible interfacing to the fabric is easy if you follow these tips: Use a press cloth underneath the garment to prevent the fusible from...
Customizing pieces of your winter wardrobe has never been easier. This project will show you how to use embroidery and appliqué to embellish a knitted hat and mittens. Great gift idea! Supplies Hat & Mittens , 10” x 4” Gold or Silver Lame Fabric,...
Ask Angela ...: There are countless women like me who must have the same question to ask, so I'll make an attempt to speak for the group. After reaching those golden years, we start to wonder why our clothes -- especially shirts and blouses -- seem to have lost all...
Welcome to Ask Angela where your questions get answered in detail! This weeks question is from Glenda and you can watch the video above (click here if you don't see the video). You will find a tutorial on how to clean a dirty iron face and even a preview of my...
Hopefully you had time over the weekend to spiff up your sewing room. My Craftsy class "Sew Confident: Essential Techniques for Beginners" has officially launched and we are already just shy of 500 students. Very Exciting! CONGRATULATIONS! First things first,...
Sewing Tip of the Day! NEVER use a dull seam ripper!!!!! I buy my seam rippers in bulk from WAWAK Sewing and you should too 🙂 Then you can throw them away at the first sign of dullness and grab a new one. Have a Specific Sewing Need or...
Fab-ri-cate (from dictionary.com unabridged – based on the Random House Dictionary) To make by art or skill and labor; construct To make by assembling parts or sections To devise or invent To fake; forge That definition pretty much leaves the door open for...
Getting new samples ready for It's Sew Easy TV season 6 taping, I am finishing designing new dresses and experimenting with embellishing with embroidery. I have had this purple raw silk for years and really like the color, but it's SO bright by...
First off, thanks so much for the embroidery tips! I started with simply adding letters on sueded silk, just trying to get a grip on rotating the word and changing the overall size. I am happy to announce, embroidering letters is much easier than I thought. I choose...