Darts have a unique role in clothing. The obvious reason for adding darts would be for fitting purposes, but they are also used as a design element. After you try on your muslin, you might find that you need to add additional darts to the front or back waist – this is common if you have a tiny waist.
Any easy way to determine if you will need to add darts is to measure your waist and hips. A standard pattern will have the waist and hips with a 10 inch difference.
For example: your natural waist measurement is 26″ and your hips are 40″
A standard pattern would have 40″ hips with a 30″ waist, you would probably need to add 2 darts in order to take in that extra 4″ or your waistband would have a big gap. Get the idea 🙂
TRANSFERRING DARTS TO THE FABRIC
- Start by clipping small notches at the waistband at each dart location: a snip at each dart opening.
- Place a pin through all the layers of muslin and fabric at the tip of the dart
- On the wrong side of the fabric, find the pin marking the tip of the dart
- Fold the fabric with right sides together at the dart location
- Match up the snips at the waistline
Sewing the Darts
- Start stitching at the largest part of the dart
- When you get toward the tip of the dart, instead of back-stitching, shorten the stitch length and stitch. This is less bulk than back-stitching.
Pressing is the most important part of sewing! Here is a “Dressmaker Ham”. On the main side of the pressing ham, the curve matches the curve of a dart. Why not just press the dart flat on the ironing board? Because the point of the dart is to accommodate your curves, so you need to press the same curve. Remember to use a lot of steam and the tailors clapper for a crisp edge.
Angela Wolf’s Weekly Facebook Live Show … Lets Talk Dart’s
In case you missed last week’s show, I discussed fitting darts on a dress form and couture sewing tips for altering the curve of the dart for your shape. Click on the video below …
Fringe Skirt Sewalong
It’s not too late to join the fringe skirt sewalong! Here is the full list of lessons. See you in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group for comments and questions! Can’t wait to see your skirts coming together!!!
The Fringe Skirt Sewalong Schedule:
- Fabric & Sourcing (February 10. 2017)
- Fitting & Patternhacking (February 16. 2017)
- Cutting & Prep (February 21. 2017)
- All About Darts (February 23. 2017)
- Quilting the Lining (February 28. 2017)
- Invisible Zipper’s (March 2. 2017)
- Waistbands (March 7. 2017)
- Hemming & Fringe (March 9. 2017)
- Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group!
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