Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Sleeve Placket

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Sleeve Placket

It’s Sew Easy TV’s Shirt Dress Sewalong 

Part 4: Sewing the Placket on the Sleeve

There are many ways to sew the sleeve placket and depending on your pattern you might have a one piece or two piece placket.  If you have a two piece placket, you can change it to one piece and follow the steps I have shown in the tutorial.  I learned this technique from altering men’s ready-to-wear and thought THIS WAS SO EASY (It’s Sew Easy LOL!)

The video from It’s Sew Easy tv is a brief tutorial on sewing the placket including pressing and topstitching. As far as interfacing, keep the interfacing out of the seam allowances or the placket will be too stiff.

I am going to work on another shirt dress out of chiffon and definitely going to add embroidery.  Now is the time to embroider the sleeve, before we sew the side seams.  Just an idea 🙂

 

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Pz0yYCZkKdE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 Supplies used in this videoSEWALONG SALE

Sewalong Schedule

Here is the blog schedule for the season long sew-along with links to the tutorials and live Q&A on my blog (each link will open on the date listed).  Season 14 of It’s Sew Easy had begun airing on PBS and Create TV; you will be able to watch each episode there first (depending on when your specific station begins airing the show).

Part 1: Announcing the Shirt Dress Sewalong with Angela Wolf on It’s Sew Easy

Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns, and sizing

Part 2: Sewing the Front Placket Episode 1402: Sewing the front placket

Part 3: Attaching the Collar  Episode 1404: Attaching the collar

Part 4: Sewing the Placket on the Sleeve  Episode 1405:  Sewing the placket on the sleeve

Part 5: Sewing the Sleeves and Side Seam  Episode 1406: Sewing the sleeves and side seams  (1/27/2018)

Part 6: Sewing the Cuffs  Episode 1408: Sewing the cuffs  (2/3/2018)

Part 7: Sewing the Buttons and Buttonholes  Episode 1409: Buttons and buttonholes  (2/10/2018)

Part 8: Finishing the Hem  Episode 1413: Finishing the hem with a rolled hem  (2/17/2018)

 

Join us! A new video will arrive on YouTube every Saturday. Sign up here and never miss a blog post and join the fun on facebook, instagram, twitter, and pinterest . We will share photos on the social side using hashtags #angleawolf #itseweasy

Can’t wait to see what you sew up!  Leave your comments & questions below …

Cheers,

 

Previous Blog Posts

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Sleeve Placket

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Sleeve Placket

by | Jan 20, 2018

It's Sew Easy TV's Shirt Dress Sewalong  Part 4: Sewing the Placket on the Sleeve There are many ways to sew the sleeve placket and depending on your pattern you might have a one piece or two piece placket.  If you have a two piece placket, you can change...

read more
Shirt Dress Sewalong: Attaching the Collar

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Attaching the Collar

by | Jan 16, 2018

It's Sew Easy TV's Shirt Dress Sewalong  Part 3 Attaching the Collar Sewing the collar and collar band can be intimidating, but it's easier than you might thing. The most important is the topstitching, this is what makes your shirt or shirtdress look...

read more
Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Front Placket

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Front Placket

by | Jan 6, 2018

How to Sew the Front Placket It's Sew Easy TV's Shirt Dress Sewalong - Part 2  Tips for Attaching Interfacing Pressing fusible interfacing to the fabric is easy if you follow these tips: Use a press cloth underneath the garment to prevent the fusible from...

read more
SEW A WARDROBE ? ANGELA WOLF BIRTHDAY SEWATHON

SEW A WARDROBE ? ANGELA WOLF BIRTHDAY SEWATHON

by | Nov 26, 2017

ANGELA WOLF'S BIRTHDAY WEEK SEWATHON! ? I have nothing to wear! ? What started as a casual comment on my facebook live show turned into a week long sewathon with fabulous giveaways and lot's of sewing!  I plan to sew Monday thru Friday, trying to add new...

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Behind the Scenes LIVE with Angela Wolf

facebook live

Facebook LIVE every Wednesday at 1:30pm EST

Let’s Talk …

Watch each episode live on facebook or catch the replay here!

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Shirt Dress Sewalong: Attaching the Collar

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Attaching the Collar

It’s Sew Easy TV’s Shirt Dress Sewalong 

Part 3 Attaching the Collar

Sewing the collar and collar band can be intimidating, but it’s easier than you might thing. The most important is the topstitching, this is what makes your shirt or shirtdress look expensive.  Watch the video below for a quick preview of sewing the collar.

 

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jqe8-a5SLkE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Sewing Tools Used in this Tutorial:

SEWALONG SALE

Sewalong Scheduleangela wolf shirtdress

Here is the blog schedule for the season long sew-along with links to the tutorials and live Q&A on my blog (each link will open on the date listed).  Season 14 of It’s Sew Easy had begun airing on PBS and Create TV; you will be able to watch each episode there first (depending on when your specific station begins airing the show).

Part 1: Announcing the Shirt Dress Sewalong with Angela Wolf on It’s Sew Easy

Episode 1401: Choosing and prepping fabrics, patterns, and sizing

Part 2: Sewing the Front Placket  Episode 1402: Sewing the front placket

Part 3: Attaching the Collar  Episode 1404: Attaching the collar

Part 4: Sewing the Placket on the Sleeve  Episode 1405:  Sewing the placket on the sleeve  (1/20/2018)

Part 5: Sewing the Sleeves and Side Seam  Episode 1406: Sewing the sleeves and side seams  (1/27/2018)

Part 6: Sewing the Cuffs  Episode 1408: Sewing the cuffs  (2/3/2018)

Part 7: Sewing the Buttons and Buttonholes  Episode 1409: Buttons and buttonholes  (2/10/2018)

Part 8: Finishing the Hem  Episode 1413: Finishing the hem with a rolled hem  (2/17/2018)

Join us! A new video will arrive on YouTube every Saturday. Sign up here and never miss a blog post and join the fun on facebook, instagram, twitter, and pinterest . We will share photos on the social side using hashtags #angleawolf #itseweasy #shirtdresssewalong

Can’t wait to see what you sew up!  Leave your comments & questions below …

Cheers,

 

 

Behind the Scenes LIVE with Angela Wolf

 

 

facebook live

Facebook LIVE every Wednesday at 1:30pm EST

Let’s Talk …

Watch each episode live on facebook or catch the replay here!

 

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Previous Blog Posts

 

New Dress Form Unboxing & Giveaway with Joe Vecchiarelli

New Dress Form Unboxing & Giveaway with Joe Vecchiarelli

by | Dec 9, 2021

Birthday Week goes into 40 gifts to Christmas! Celebrating Birthday week then moves into Christmas and the Holiday's with Joe Vecchiarelli! Joe from French European Inc. has been so generous to the Wolfpack with awesome discounts and free dress forms and this year is...

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by | Oct 6, 2021

Let's Celebrate! I can't tell you how excited I was to see 50,000 of you have subscribed to my YouTube channel!  I can still remember putting up my first videos 10 years ago.  I thought a fun way to celebrate is to do a giveaway every week for the next month.  YEAH!...

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Pant Sloper Fitting Online Course

Pant Sloper Fitting Online Course

by | Sep 2, 2021

Pant Sloper Fitting Online Course Learn to fit your own pant sloper! Then take that sloper and turn it into a pattern. This class will be taught in a virtual & online setting; offering 5 live lessons with additional videos for specific fitting issues. You will...

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Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Front Placket

Shirt Dress Sewalong: Sewing the Front Placket

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FXMTr_4LcMs" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

How to Sew the Front Placket

It’s Sew Easy TV’s Shirt Dress Sewalong – Part 2 

Tips for Attaching Interfacing

Pressing fusible interfacing to the fabric is easy if you follow these tips:

  • Use a press cloth underneath the garment to prevent the fusible from ruining the ironing board cover
  • Use a press cloth between the garment  to save your iron and prevent burning the fabric
  • When pressing the interfacing into place, lift and hold the iron – DO NOT SLIDE IRON
  • Press and hold the iron for a few seconds and press firmly to prevent the fusible from coming unattached later on

Pressing Cloth

You can use various fabrics for a press cloth.  I tend to use a lightweight cotton or muslin fabric because that is what I typically have on hand.  Cheese cloth is another option and Silk organza is another favorite.
SEWALONG SALE

Tips for Topstitching

  • Stitch from the right side of the fabric
  • Use cotton or silk thread for touch of style
  • The triple stitch with a stitch length of 3.5 to 4.0 resembles ready-to-wear
  • Lengthen the stitch length and test on a scrap of fabric to see which looks the best

Here are some of the supplies I used in this episode:

You will find links to many of these items on my Amazon shopping list.

Fabric Ideas

Have you thought of sewing this shirtdress with a different fabric than the traditional cotton?  This week’s episode of Behind the Scenes showed some fabric ideas for the sewalong including silk, velvet burnout, and more!

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Sewalong Scheduleangela wolf shirtdress

Here is the blog schedule for the season long sew-along with links to the tutorials and live Q&A on my blog (each link will open on the date listed).  Season 14 of It’s Sew Easy had begun airing on PBS and Create TV; you will be able to watch each episode there first (depending on when your specific station begins airing the show).

Join us! A new video will upload on YouTube every Saturday. Sign up here and never miss a blog post and join the fun on facebook, instagram, twitter, and pinterest . We will share photos on the social side using hashtags #angleawolf #itseweasy #shirtdresssewalong

Can’t wait to see what you sew up!  Leave your comments & questions below …

Cheers,

 

Behind the Scenes LIVE with Angela Wolf

facebook live

Facebook LIVE every Wednesday at 1:30pm EST

Let’s Talk …

Watch each episode live on facebook or catch the replay here!

<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FAngelaWolfCouture%2Fvideos%2F1748757198488054%2F&show_text=1&width=560" width="560" height="445" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe>
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Previous Blog Posts

New Dress Form Unboxing & Giveaway with Joe Vecchiarelli

New Dress Form Unboxing & Giveaway with Joe Vecchiarelli

by | Dec 9, 2021

Birthday Week goes into 40 gifts to Christmas! Celebrating Birthday week then moves into Christmas and the Holiday's with Joe Vecchiarelli! Joe from French European Inc. has been so generous to the Wolfpack with awesome discounts and free dress forms and this year is...

read more
Celebrating 50K YouTube Subscribers!

Celebrating 50K YouTube Subscribers!

by | Oct 6, 2021

Let's Celebrate! I can't tell you how excited I was to see 50,000 of you have subscribed to my YouTube channel!  I can still remember putting up my first videos 10 years ago.  I thought a fun way to celebrate is to do a giveaway every week for the next month.  YEAH!...

read more
Pant Sloper Fitting Online Course

Pant Sloper Fitting Online Course

by | Sep 2, 2021

Pant Sloper Fitting Online Course Learn to fit your own pant sloper! Then take that sloper and turn it into a pattern. This class will be taught in a virtual & online setting; offering 5 live lessons with additional videos for specific fitting issues. You will...

read more

How to Sew Exposed Zippers in Jeans and Jeggings!

How to Sew Exposed Zippers in Jeans and Jeggings!

With October’s Wardrobe Challenge including zippers, I thought now would be a good time to share a few easy ways to embellish with exposed zippers.

exposed zipe

A fun way to change the look of a pair of jeans is to embellish the leg with an exposed zipper.  Follow along:

angelawolfexposedzip1Supplies Needed:

angelawolfexposedzip2

Step 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the center of the pant leg (could be front or back, wherever you want the zipper).

If marking an existing pair of jeans, rip out the hem at least 5″ from each side of new mark. Press the fusible interfacing along the newly marked center line.

angelawolfexposedzip3

Step 2: Mark the hem, hem allowance, and the length of the zipper opening down center of the pant leg.

angelawolfexposedzip4

Step 3: Determine the width of the zipper opening (depends on the width of the zipper teeth).  Draw in opening, top edge, and then add a triangle from the center cut line to each corner (as shown above).

angelawolfexposedzip5Step 4: Cut along center marking.  Cut each triangle point (if you are worried about the fabric fraying, add Fray Check to the top corners)

angelawolfexposedzip6

Step 5: Press the seam allowances back and press triangle tip up.

angelawolfexposedzip8

Step 6: Line up the zipper with the metal teeth in the center of the opening.  Check the placement of the zipper stop and zipper tab.

angelawolfexposedzip10angelawolfexposedzip9

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

angelawolfexposedzip11

Step 7: Fold back the zipper tape and press in place at the hemline.

angelawolfexposedzip13

angelawolfexposedzip12

Step 8:  Pin zipper in place.

angelawolfexposedzip14

angelawolfexposedzip15

Step 9:  In this example, I am using standard polyester thread, cotton or silk thread would work too.  Set the sewing machine to a triple stitch and lengthen the stitch length to 4.0.  (Note:  if you don’t have this feature, use denim thread, straight stitch, stitch length 4.0)

angelawolfexposedzip16

Step 10: Stitch along the edge of the zipper.  Open and close the zipper as needed in order to get the foot by the zipper tab.  angelawolfexposedzip17Step 11:  Notice how I have lined up the edge of the zipper foot with the metal teeth, a very easy to get a straight stitch  … or this would be a great time to utilize the laser vision guide feature on your machine! 🙂

angelawolfexposedzip18

Step 12: Press up the hem with the tailor’s clapper for a crisp crease.  By the way, did I mention WAWAK Sewing is now carrying my tailor’s clapper!  Yeah!

angelawolfexposedzip19

Step 13: Hem the jeans and move onto the other leg.

That’s it! Now this is just one quick, easy way to install a hidden zipper.  I will give you some more ideas next time.

Cheers,

Angela Wolf

 

WAWAK_SEWING  Angela_Wolf_DVD_Cover__70546_1405390138_1280_1280

Sewing Pattern Alterations – Fitting a Jean Pattern for a Round Stomach

Sewing Pattern Alterations – Fitting a Jean Pattern for a Round Stomach

Sewing jeans are really easy once you get the hang of the process, but fitting the pattern can be challenging. The next few posts are going to deal with exactly that, fitting various body shapes. This pattern alteration is needed if you have a fuller stomach, in the old days referred to as an apple shape.  Although, I am not sure where the fruit terms originated from, I really don’t like them.  I would rather be a glass!  Wine glass, red wine glass, martini glass, goblet, water-glass,  I think you get the idea.  It just sounds a little more glamorous than an apple or pear 🙂    Anyway, if you made up a jean muslin and the pattern fit great in the legs, hips, and tush, but you just can’t get that center front closed … here you go:

Fitting a Jean Pattern for a Round Stomach

1.  Tape the front pocket in place.  Start by drawing lines on your pattern (don’t cut yet):

  • Draw a line (green) across the hip and up to the tip of the side seam.
  • Draw 2 lines (purple) perpendicular to the green line,

Angela Wolf Pattern Alteration 12.   Cut along the green line, cutting up to the side seam put NOT through the edge.

Angela Wolf Pattern Alteration 2

3.  Slide the pattern open.  Look what happens, you just gave a little more room in the front tummy area in the width and height of the pattern.

Angela Wolf Pattern Alteration 3

4.  The upper waist curve is too extreme if left like this.  Cut each purple line, down to the green line, but NOT through it.  Slide each line open until the waist curve angles down more like the original pattern.

belt loop30

5.  Redraw a new waistline and center front crotch curve (red line).

Angela Wolf Pattern Alteration 5

If you are having difficulty redrawing the front crotch curve, slide the pattern back together.  Mark the bottom edge of the facing area and trim off the front fly facing.  Follow all the steps and then tape the front facing back in place once the new center front is drawn in, lining up the facing with the marking on the pattern.  Draw a line extending the facing up to the waistline  ( I used this pattern piece, because I knew someone would ask about that).

Here is your new front pattern piece, use this for the front and left, of course one will have a front facing section and the other will not.  This is the same alteration for any pant style when you need a little more room in the tummy area.

How are your jeans coming along for March’s wardrobe challenge?  The judges are almost finished with February’s winners, hope to announce them this weekend.

SPECIAL OFFER FROM WAWAK SEWING!

Looking to stock up on jean sewing supplies – zippers, jean thread, jean buttons … WAWAK Sewing is offering $10 off the next order of $80 or more!  This offer is good until March 31st, use PROMO CODE:  WAGW314 when checking out.  What a great treat for the jean challenge!  Thanks WAWAK! 🙂

That’s all for today 🙂  Sun is shining and snow is melting, thank goodness!!!!

 

 

How to Prepare & Sew a Jacket Lapel (another giveaway)

How to Prepare & Sew a Jacket Lapel (another giveaway)

Angela Wolf patterns 2013 -2311

When I asked what part of sewing jackets you find the most intimidating to sew, many of you left a comment about the collar and lapel.  I must have had a premonition, as this week’s episode of It’s Sew Easy gives you a few tips for success.  You are right, the collar and lapel is what really makes your jacket stand out … and the good news …  it’s easier to sew than you think.  In fact, sewing is only a minute part involved in tailoring a collar.  The most time-consuming part involves preparing the center front jacket, upper collar, and under collar pattern pieces with interfacing and twill tape, not to mention pad stitching if you are going the traditional tailoring route.  The weight of the interfacing will determine the thickness and stability of your lapel and collar, so be sure to test a sample first.  My two favorites for jackets are armo-weft fusible interfacing (shown here) and horse hair canvas (perfect if you plan on pad stitching – which I will show in a later blog post).  Fusible interfacing can be added in layers if you need more structure at the end of the lapel, keep that in mind if you interfacing supply is limited.

Despite adding interfacing, extra measures need to be taken to prevent the neckline and center front of the jacket from stretching out.  Twill tape is the perfect solution!  Look closely and you can see hand stitching attaching the 1/4″ wide cotton twill tape to the front edge of the jacket.  As I am hand stitching, I am holding the twill tape tight and allowing the jacket fabric to ease in.  Not too much easing though!  Make sure the jacket doesn’t change shape or become skewed.

IMG_1911

What about that perfect roll on the lapel?  Again, twill tape is hand stitched to the roll line (the roll line should be printed on your jacket pattern)

angela wolf jacket lapel

When hand stitching the twill tape to the roll line, keep the twill tape tight (tighter than when we added twill tape to the center front and neckline).  Again, easing in the fashion fabric.  I use a pin to hold one end of the twill tape and start stitching from the other end.  You can see below how much I am easing!

tailoring jackets angela wolf

Here I started hand stitching the twill tape in place, the main part of the stitch is on the twill tape and I am just picking a short fiber in the fashion fabric, then back through the twill tape.  You can barely see the stitching from the right side of the fabric.  When you are finished steam press the lapel roll using a seam roll.  Again, for more details see this weeks episode of It’s Sew Easy, scroll to the bottom of their page and click on the video.

angela wolf tailoring jacket

Another Giveaway, this one is for my online class:  Sewing a Designer Unlined Jacket on PatternReveiw.com.  Does your favorite jacket style close in the center front or asymmetrically?  Just tell us your preference to enter the jacket class giveaway.  (A random winner will be drawn next Monday)   Congratulations to last weeks winner JRP53 who will be joining me in the  Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Jackets on PatternReview!   Good luck on your jackets!

Cheers 🙂

Angela Wolf

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