Sewing jeans are really easy once you get the hang of the process, but fitting the pattern can be challenging. The next few posts are going to deal with exactly that, fitting various body shapes. This pattern alteration is needed if you have a fuller stomach, in the old days referred to as an apple shape. Although, I am not sure where the fruit terms originated from, I really don’t like them. I would rather be a glass! Wine glass, red wine glass, martini glass, goblet, water-glass, I think you get the idea. It just sounds a little more glamorous than an apple or pear 🙂 Anyway, if you made up a jean muslin and the pattern fit great in the legs, hips, and tush, but you just can’t get that center front closed … here you go:
Fitting a Jean Pattern for a Round Stomach
1. Tape the front pocket in place. Start by drawing lines on your pattern (don’t cut yet):
- Draw a line (green) across the hip and up to the tip of the side seam.
- Draw 2 lines (purple) perpendicular to the green line,
2. Cut along the green line, cutting up to the side seam put NOT through the edge.
3. Slide the pattern open. Look what happens, you just gave a little more room in the front tummy area in the width and height of the pattern.
4. The upper waist curve is too extreme if left like this. Cut each purple line, down to the green line, but NOT through it. Slide each line open until the waist curve angles down more like the original pattern.
5. Redraw a new waistline and center front crotch curve (red line).
If you are having difficulty redrawing the front crotch curve, slide the pattern back together. Mark the bottom edge of the facing area and trim off the front fly facing. Follow all the steps and then tape the front facing back in place once the new center front is drawn in, lining up the facing with the marking on the pattern. Draw a line extending the facing up to the waistline ( I used this pattern piece, because I knew someone would ask about that).
Here is your new front pattern piece, use this for the front and left, of course one will have a front facing section and the other will not. This is the same alteration for any pant style when you need a little more room in the tummy area.
How are your jeans coming along for March’s wardrobe challenge? The judges are almost finished with February’s winners, hope to announce them this weekend.
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That’s all for today 🙂 Sun is shining and snow is melting, thank goodness!!!!
That’s a great post. I love it. I was just wondering though, How far in from the facing do you take the green line? To the hip bone?
This is a great post! However, I am hoping you will deal with the tush area. I tried making a muslin of your pattern but the center back curve was all wrong for me. Turns out not only did I need more of an ‘L’ shape, I needed more depth. How would you deal with that?
Thanks so much for this, I know it will come in handy when I have a chance to make the jeans. Your instructions are always impeccable. I too love NYDJ construction across the tummy. Any hints on how to duplicate that would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Angela! My stomach is flat…if I suck it in! 😉 What do you think about somehow building in a piece that would “support” it and smoosh it (rather than let it relax), like my NYDJ jeans seem to have? Should I try extending the pocket somehow? I could eat more carrots and fewer potatoes, but I’d rather sew a “cheat”.
Great idea and great instructions. Thank You!