how to sew Archives ~ Page 2 of 5 ~ Angela Wolf's Sewing Blog

TUTORIAL: HOW TO SEW A FLATLOCK STITCH ON THE SERGER

Flatlock Stitching on a Serger

There are so many stitches we can do with our serger / overlock machines! You might recognize the flatlock stitch as seen on sportswear or a decorative stitch used to connect two pieces of fabric. This stitch is fun and easy to do!

Supplies:

Serger Tension Settings

Left Needle: decrease (2)
Upper Looper: decrease (2 – 5)
Lower Looper increase (6 – 9)

Use the blind hem foot – alter the settings on the foot to stitch across half of the fabric.

Watch the It’s Sew Easy Episode below for details on where to position the fabric to create the flatlock stitch. Be sure to test the fabric and stitch before starting a project. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, the blind hem foot will need to be adjusted to the right or left for a wider or narrower stitch.

The photo to the left shows where the stitch width was too narrow and slipped off the fabric, thus creating a hole. The photo to the right looks much better.

Let me know when you try this stitch. I would love to see your creativity with this one 🙂

Cheers,

325: Learn to Sew an Envelops Purse Clutch with Angel Wolf

Envelope Pattern There are three download versions for the envelope pattern: Full Layout - Use this for projector printing or printing on a plotter. ENVELOPE PURSE Letter Size Printing - Use this when printing letter size paper (8.5" x 11"). Print pages 1-8, the...

Quilted Grocery Bag Sewalong

Quilted Grocery Bag Sewalong I am so excited to share this new grocery bag sewalong with you! This is an easy project with opportunities to make is more advanced with embroidery and embellishing. Sewalong Schedule #372 - 9/7 - Sewalong Part 1 Supplies and Pattern...

309: Boucle Skirt + Quilted Lining = Touch of Couture Part 1

Tweed Skirt Sewalong Part 1 In part 1 of this sewalong I will share options for choosing the best fabrics and pattern. Join me in choosing the best lining to coordiante with my fabric!Skirt Patterns to choose from: ~ The Kate Skirt ~ The Fringe Skirt Pattern ~...

Ep. 305: Learn What is Planned for the Sew Fun Cruise in February 2024

Episode 305 🧵 Behind the Scenes with Angela Wolf I know you have heard me say many time ... I am never going on a cruise! Winn and I are on the water all the time, why would I want to go on a cruise?!? Kelli Presley and Phyllis Batz will be joining me live to talk...

Ep. 304 Meet Jeff – Founder of CraftOptics

Episode 305 🧵 Behind the Scenes with Angela Wolf Featuring CraftOptics I am not sure about your, but if I am working in a low lit area or sewing beads onto a garment, I tend to lean forward and squint, this ending up with a terrible back ache! CraftOptics has changed...

Ep. 303 Delila Knit Top Part 3

Episode 303 🧵 Behind the Scenes with Angela Wolf The last part of our Delila Slit Sleeve Sewalong! Have you checked out all the Delila tops posted in our private Angela Wolf Patterns Group? So cute!!! Angie Hotchkiss ~ Angela Wolf Facebook GroupDarlene Deck ~...

DIY RESTYLE PROJECT: TURTLENECK MAKE OVER

I have a few turtlenecks that are made of beautiful fabrics, but I can’t stand the high, tight neckline. Time for another DIY recycle project to makeover this sweater! The look of see through fabric, embroidered, and embellished tulle are so trendy right now – why not add a touch of glamour 🙂 I have listed all the steps here and included a video below with the full tutorial.

Supplies: Turtleneck, Tulle Fabric, Sewing Supplies including scissors, quilters ruler, tailors chalk, pins, universal or stretch thread (you can find the sewing supplies here on my amazon page)

The first thing we are going to do is cut off the sleeves and collar (my turtleneck has a raglan sleeve, but any sleeve style will work). Cut inside of the sleeve seamline and underneath the collar. Save the sleeves to use as a pattern.

Mark the back of the sweater: Trace the back for the sweater outline onto the tulle fabric from the underarm up.

Mark a line across the sweater where you want the sweater fabric to meet the tulle fabric. Add a seam allowance and cut. Align the sweater with the tulle fabric. add a seam allowance onto the tulle fabric and cut. (the video below shows all these steps in detail).

With right sides together, pin the tulle fabric to the sweater fabric.

Click on the video below to watch the full tutorial or head over to my post as a Brother Expert Consultant on the Brother Stitching Sewcial.

Are you going to try this cute restyle? Leave a comment below and tell me what you think 🙂

Cheers,

Previous DIY Restyling, Recycling, and Makeover Blog Posts …

DIY: Refashion Jeans with Trim

Refashion Jeans with Trim You might have noticed some of the fashions of the late 60’s and 70’s making a comeback on the store shelves, from floral fabrics to embellished jeans. How about adding crocheted ribbon trim along the outside leg! This is so...

EMBELLISHING JEANS WITH FREE MOTION EMBROIDERY

Embellishing Jeans with Free Motion Embroidery An easy way to restyle or upcycle jeans is to add a touch of embroidery. Free motion embroidery, also referred to as thread painting, is so easy and you don’t even need an embroidery machine for this...

Tutorial: Transform a Turtleneck into a Boatneck

Transform a Turtleneck into a Stylish Boatneck Top Here is another recycle project for the turtlenecks in our closet and its easy - perfect for beginners! For this sewing tutorial I am using a turtleneck that has a design, but any tank top will work. ...

Fashion Sewing for Beginners plus a quick sewing tip!

Sewing Tip of the Day!

NEVER use a dull seam ripper!!!!! I buy my seam rippers in bulk from WAWAK Sewing and you should too 🙂 Then you can throw them away at the first sign of dullness and grab a new one.

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TIPS ON HOW TO SEW FAUX LEATHER!

Leather is a major trend this season and continues on into the spring, yes leather for spring and summer! Here are a few tips to get you started:

TIP 1. FABRIC

Check the fabric for flaws, especially in faux leather you might find scratches or cuts that you will need to work around when cutting out the pattern pieces.

Consider the weight and feel of the fabric for the design. For example a biker jacket will need a thicker fabric than say a peplum style jacket. Also, squeeze the fabric in your hand and if it has deep creases or wrinkles, that is how it will look after wearing it (better to know now :))

TIP 2. NEEDLES

Use a Leather Needle in the sewing machine. Start with a size 12 or 14 for light to medium weight fabric.

Go up to a 16 or 18 for heavier fabric, but be sure to CHECK your sewing machine as to what is the largest size needle it will accommodate. One of my older machines will only allow up to a size 14.

For sewing faux leather I prefer using a Jean Needle size 14. If you are having a problem with skipped stitches try this needle.

When it comes to hand-stitching, standard needles have a difficult time piercing the fabric. Instead use a Leather Hand Needle, this needle has a triangular point that pierces the fabric. Just be careful, the tip is REALLY sharp!

TIP 3: NO PINS

Just as difficult as it is to pierce leather / faux leather, once you do pierce the fabric the hole is there forever! Use fabric clips to hold the fabric instead of pins. They are lightweight and don’t damage the fabric.

TIP 4: TAPING SEAM ALLOWANCES

When sewing garments, pressing the seam allowances open with a Tailor’s Clapper is the best option. Unfortunately with leather, faux leather, vinyl, and suede, even if you safely press the fabric with an iron shoe, the seam allowance will not stay open. The best solution for securing seam allowances and hemming is either topstitching or leather tape (a special double-sided tape).

This is how easy it works:

1. Place a strip of LEATHER TAPE in the seam allowance with the sticky side down.

2. Remove paper backing, revealing the other side of the tape.

3. Fold back the seam allowance or hem allowance.

I use the 1/4″ wide tape for seam allowances and 1/2″ wide tape for hems.

Cheers,

Ep. 302 Delila Knit Top Sewalong Part 2

by Angela

Episode 302 🧵 Behind the Scenes with Angela Wolf We are onto part 2 in the Delila sew along! We have cut our fabric and ready to sew. Did you have any questions about fitting? If so, be sure to take your photos with questions to the Angela Wolf Patterns Facebook...

Ep. 301 Delila Knit Top Sewalong Part 1

by Angela

Episode 301 🧵 Behind the Scenes with Angela Wolf Getting into summer and looking for stylish tops to wear with jeans, shorts, or skirts and one of my fist patterns always shows up ... The DelilaDelila Pattern has 9 Options I designed this pattern to be able to sew...

Ep. 260 Sewing the Shirley Wrap Top with a Sweater Knit

by Angela

Episode 260 🧵 Behind the Scenes with Angela Wolf ~ Sew the Shirley Wrap with a Sweater Knit The Shirley Wrap pattern is so versatile and this time we will use a thicker, sweater knit fabric. You can find the Shirley pattern in PDF and paper patterns in size XXS -...

VLOG 259 Behind the Scenes ✂️ Pressing with a Tailors Clapper

by Angela

Episode 259 ~ At your side 🧵 Virtually! Organizing and Sewing Clear Vinyl Join Angela Wolf with the next steps in sewing the Shirley Wrap with a sweater knit. Pressing hems with a tailors clapper, prepping neckline, and marking gathering.Catch the Next Show ... Be...

Sewing with CraftOptics is a Great Solution for the Eyes!

by Angela Wolf

Have you see the WOW package from CraftOptics? I met Jeff Caplan from CraftOptics a few years ago in Puyallup, his booth was around the corner from Kai Scissors. I was intrigued by the glasses and loved hearing the comments that people would say after trying them...

NEW Skini-Mini Angela Wolf Martelli Ruler Kits

by Angela Wolf

New Angela Wolf & Martelli Ruler Sets I am so excited to announce my new ruler set designed by Martelli. In case you are new to Martelli, they are a family owned business located in Florida. I have been testing some of their products the last few months and I am...

How to Sew Exposed Zippers in Jeans and Jeggings!

With October’s Wardrobe Challenge including zippers, I thought now would be a good time to share a few easy ways to embellish with exposed zippers.

A fun way to change the look of a pair of jeans is to embellish the leg with an exposed zipper. Follow along:

Supplies Needed:

Strip of fusible interfacing cut 3″ wide and at least 2″ longer the zipper,
2 metal zippers (any length)
#14 denim Jean needle
Thread of choice
Fabric pen
Quilter’s Ruler
Scissors
Tailor’s Clapper

Step 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the center of the pant leg (could be front or back, wherever you want the zipper).

If marking an existing pair of jeans, rip out the hem at least 5″ from each side of new mark. Press the fusible interfacing along the newly marked center line.

Step 2: Mark the hem, hem allowance, and the length of the zipper opening down center of the pant leg.

Step 3: Determine the width of the zipper opening (depends on the width of the zipper teeth). Draw in opening, top edge, and then add a triangle from the center cut line to each corner (as shown above).

Step 4: Cut along center marking. Cut each triangle point (if you are worried about the fabric fraying, add Fray Check to the top corners)

Step 5: Press the seam allowances back and press triangle tip up.

Step 6: Line up the zipper with the metal teeth in the center of the opening. Check the placement of the zipper stop and zipper tab.

Step 7: Fold back the zipper tape and press in place at the hemline.

Step 8: Pin zipper in place.

Step 9: In this example, I am using standard polyester thread, cotton or silk thread would work too. Set the sewing machine to a triple stitch and lengthen the stitch length to 4.0. (Note: if you don’t have this feature, use denim thread, straight stitch, stitch length 4.0)

Step 10: Stitch along the edge of the zipper. Open and close the zipper as needed in order to get the foot by the zipper tab. Step 11: Notice how I have lined up the edge of the zipper foot with the metal teeth, a very easy to get a straight stitch … or this would be a great time to utilize the laser vision guide feature on your machine! 🙂

Step 12: Press up the hem with the tailor’s clapper for a crisp crease. By the way, did I mention WAWAK Sewing is now carrying my tailor’s clapper! Yeah!