Getting back to sewing jackets … by any chance did you happen to catch last weeks episode on It’s Sew Easy TV where I demonstrated adding a curved welt pocket. Welt pockets can be a little intimidating because once you cut into the garment, you can’t change your mind! In case you missed the episode, here is a quick recap:
1. Interface the entire jacket front and side front pattern pieces (not only does that prevent the fabric from fraying, it supports the pocket). Similar to a standard welt pocket, take two bias strips of fashion fabric, add fusible interfacing, and press in half. Draw the curve line of the pocket onto the right side of the fashion fabric. Turn the welts with the fold side away from the chalked in line (or make sure the raw edges are touching) and stitch along the center of the welt flap. Notice how I have also chalk marked the ends of the pocket opening.
2. Turn the jacket over and on the wrong side of the garment you will see the stitch lines (I obviously used a yellow thread so you can see this :)). Starting about 1″ in from one end of the stitching, cut into the fashion fabric. Cut right in the middle of the stitch lines and end the cut about 1″ before the other stitch end. Going back to the 1″ that we left alone, snip each corner from the cut line to the edge of the stitch line. Do this for all four corners – as shown above.
3. (See below) What is left is a slit with each welt on each side. Pull the welts through the open slit, toward the wrong side of the fabric.
4. Align the welts and press. Run a basting stitch through the fold of each welt. Now the pocket opening won’t slide around while finishing the pocket.
5. Topstitch 1/8″ from the edge of the welt pocket. The pocket shown above is a straight welt style, yet the topstitching you see would be the same on the curved welt. Add the pocket lining. That’s it!
This weeks It’s Sew Easy episode demonstrates preparing the jacket collar and lapel. Have you been following along and sewing your own jacket? On that note, I better giveaway another one of my online jacket classes: Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Jackets on PatternReview. Entering to win is easy, leave a comment below about what you find the most intimidating about sewing jackets. (A random winner will be drawn on Friday).
Don’t forget ALL my PatternReview online classes are on sale for the rest of the week. Why? Just a special thanks to all of you that support my teaching. Speaking of support, thanks to your votes in the Craftsy 2013 Blogger Awards, we won Runner-Up for Sewing Best Instructor’s Blog! You all are awesome!!!! Thanks 🙂
Congratulations to Stephani the winner of my PatternReview class Create a Jacket Muslin !
Cheers!
I found you via pinterest, & a link to this post. Love the curved pockets – must add them to something….
I have a terrible time getting the lining to hang right. This includes the sleeves, where it is often too long or pulls up, and the back. It is never just right.
For me, it’s definitely the collar and lapel. Wow, I could really benefit from your class.
I had never pad stitched a jacket until I participated in the Lady Gray Sew-Along. It was intimidating at first but the results were phenomenal. It is always neat to learn something knew!!!
The most intimidating part of making a jacket for me is figuring out what to use as an underlining and choosing the correct interfacings & padding (if the pattern needs it). I really want to learn all of the ins and outs of being able to make a couture jacket. I have really enjoyed the jacket series you did for It’s Sew Easy. The last episode in that series just aired last week in my area (North Carolina). Several series ago when I first saw your demonstrations on It’s Sew Easy I started to DVR each of the episodes so I could rewind and take notes on your instructions. You are an excellent teacher and you are really excited and passionate about sewing and teaching. It has been watching your part of the episodes that really gave me the push to make the decision to get back to sewing and to set the goal to sew all of my clothes. Thank you, Angela!
Becky,
Thanks for sharing that 🙂
Cheers,
Angela
Hi Angela –
Congrats on runner up in the Craftsy Award! You definitely should have won (in my opinion). 🙂
thanks Stephanie!
Hi Angela,
Great speaking with you yesterday. I’m really looking forward to getting started.
Love this post.
Thanks
Joe
thanks Joe
The most intimidating part of sewing a jacket is the sleeve caps. I always wonder if I have created enough support on the sleeve cap, and have the right shoulder pads for my body shape. Next most intimidating part is the muslin fit. Thanks for all your inspiration.
Congratulations on your Craftsy award. I love your blog and I watch It’s Sew Easy on the internet. You just covered what intimidates me the most – welt pockets! You make it look so easy. I think I’ll practice on scrap fabric before trying it on a jacket project.
I have always been intimidated by the lapel collar interface.
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Angela. I love love love the curved welt! I wouldn’t have thought you could do that. It’s Beautiful. Thanks, Cindy
I would love to finally master the art of attaching the lining to a jacket that I made myself and of course answer the questions from my friends that ask me where I bought that lovely jacket :^)
I think the fit is the hardest part. Bound buttons and welt pockets can make me nervous, too! Thank you for the photos and steps of the curved welt. Makes it look easier than I thought.
I find the junction of collar and lapels on a revers style jacket much the most daunting element of making a jacket, though welt pockets come high on the list too. The gorge (is that the right term?) is so very obvious that sewing it correctly makes or breaks the final garment. Thank you for the post above – very helpful – I hope the welt pockets will be lower on the list in future!
I am enjoying your Craftsy jeans class, but watching right through before I start on sewing a pair for myself.
Anne
I find the shoulders intimidating because if you don’t fit them well, there can be wearing wrinkles across vertical or the diagonal
grain of the back of the jacket. Congratulations on finishing sow high in the Craftsy poll. I voted for you!
Congratulations on winning this weeks giveaway … Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets on PatternReview. Email me at info@angelawolf.com for details! See you in class 🙂
I can’t say that I would even attempt to make a jacket without taking the beginner class! I am just not advanced enough! ;-)vi
I think the sleeves. Once in a while I have trouble with lapels but mostly I can get that to work.
I don’t even know where to start on why jackets are intimidating…I’ve got sooooo many fit issues on the upper body. I still can’t seem to get the knack of altering ready made patterns to fit me no matter how many classes I watch. Yet when I work without a pattern I do great! Even when I make things for other people :-D. I just haven’t had my aha moment for pattern alterations I guess lol
The lining is the most intimidating part for me 🙂
Are we supposed to be able to see a video? I get the pdf, but no video…….for any of the classes. I can’t get this on TV in my area, so have to do the website. Kay Huff IL/USA John 3:16
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Welt pockets have give me problems in the past, so thank you for all the fabulous instructions and illustrations! Congratulations on being runner up!!
Congrats! Unfortunately we don’t get the it’s sew easy show where I live but I try to catch the episodes when they put them online 🙂
Congratulations!
Thanks! By the way, I love your blog 🙂
You deserved it! Really! BTW – the pink hammer is a hit! Love it 🙂
Fitting is what I find most intimidating with jackets. I am 6′ tall, 38″ upper bust, 42″ full bust and 35″ at the waist. I feel that I will mess up any fit alterations on the pattern/muslin and will end up in limbo, or have a jacket that does not fit.
Sleeves and lapels are definitely the most intimidating parts of jackets for me. But I am about to try my first one. 🙂