Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 4: Sewing & Fitting Darts

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 4: Sewing & Fitting Darts

Darts have a unique role in clothing.  The obvious reason for adding darts would be for fitting purposes, but they are also used as a design element.  After you try on your muslin, you might find that you need to add additional darts to the front or back waist – this is common if you have a tiny waist.

Any easy way to determine if you will need to add darts is to measure your waist and hips.  A standard pattern will have the waist and hips with a 10 inch difference.

For example:  your natural waist measurement is 26″ and your hips are 40″

A standard pattern would have 40″ hips with a 30″ waist, you would probably need to add 2 darts in order to take in that extra 4″ or your waistband would have a big gap.  Get the idea 🙂

TRANSFERRING DARTS TO THE FABRIC

 

  • Start by clipping small notches at the waistband at each dart location: a snip at each dart opening.

 

 

 

  • Place a pin through all the layers of muslin and fabric at the tip of the dart

 

 

 

 

 

  • On the wrong side of the fabric, find the pin marking the tip of the dart

 

 

 

 

  • Fold the fabric with right sides together at the dart location

 

 

 

 

  • Match up the snips at the waistline

 

 

 

Sewing the Darts

 

 

  • Start stitching at the largest part of the dart

 

 

 

  • When you get toward the tip of the dart, instead of back-stitching, shorten the stitch length and stitch.  This is less bulk than back-stitching.

 

Pressing Darts

Pressing is the most important part of sewing!  Here is a “Dressmaker Ham”.   On the main side of the pressing ham, the curve matches the curve of a dart.  Why not just press the dart flat on the ironing board?  Because the point of the dart is to accommodate your curves, so you need to press the same curve. Remember to use a lot of steam and the tailors clapper for a crisp edge.

Angela Wolf’s Weekly Facebook Live Show … Lets Talk Dart’s

In case you missed last week’s show, I discussed fitting darts on a dress form and couture sewing tips for altering the curve of the dart for your shape. Click on the video below …

Fringe Skirt Sewalong

It’s not too late to join the fringe skirt sewalong!  Here is the full list of lessons.  See you in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group for comments and questions!  Can’t wait to see your skirts coming together!!!

Cheers,

Let's Talk Darts!

Angela Wolf's Live Facebook Show - Let's Talk Darts

Posted by Angela Wolf on Friday, February 24, 2017

The Fringe Skirt Sewalong Schedule:

  1. Fabric & Sourcing (February 10. 2017)
  2. Fitting & Patternhacking  (February 16. 2017)
  3. Cutting & Prep  (February 21. 2017)
  4. All About Darts  (February 23. 2017)
  5. Quilting the Lining  (February 28. 2017)
  6. Invisible Zipper’s  (March 2. 2017)
  7. Waistbands  (March 7. 2017)
  8. Hemming & Fringe  (March 9. 2017)
  9. Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group! 

How to Make Covered Buttons

All About Buttons! Embellishing is one of my favorite things to do, in fact sometimes I even add touches to ready-to-wear garments.  One of the easiest ways to restyle is to change the buttons.  Even better, your own custom covered buttons!  From simple to couture,...

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 1: Choosing Fabrics

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 1: Choosing Fabrics

The Fringe Skirt Pattern


The Fringe Skirt Pattern: The Angela Wolf Fringe Skirt Pattern is available here in print and digital format. You can also find the pattern at many local retailers.

Garment Fabric: tweed, boucle, join the facebook group of resources on choosing fabrics.

Lining: Any lightweight fabric will work for the lining polyester, acetate, satin, cotton – my favorite is bemberg rayon, silk charmeuse, and china silk.  If you plan on adding a touch of couture by quilting the lining choose a natural fiber fabric for the lining.

Interfacing: A lightweight fusi-knit interfacing is used in the zipper area and in the waistband

Notions: 9″ invisible zipper, hook and eye, universal all purpose thread or silk thread, hand sewing needle, pins, scissors, sewing machine needle size 80/12, awl or something to unravel the fabric to make the tweed, zipper foot,

 

Fabrics & Supplies


The fringe on the skirt is made with three layers of fabric. A tweed or boucle is an ideal fabric for this pattern, simply because it’s easy to unravel the fabric as shown below.

 Pre-Shrink the Fabrics


It’s important to pre-shrink the fabrics before cutting, especially if the fabric is a natural fiber.  Do this by steam pressing.  You can also take the fabric to the dry cleaners and ask them to “steam press” the fabric.  Note: Just dry cleaning will not pre-shrink the fabric, it has to be STEAM PRESSED.  If you plan on washing and drying the finished skirt, then wash and dry the fabric the same way.

Join Angela Wolf’s Private Facebook Group!


We are all sharing fabric sources in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group. Join the fun 🙂

The Sewalong Schedule:

  1. Fabric & Sourcing (February 10.2017)
  2. Fitting & Patternhacking  (February 16.2017)
  3. Cutting & Prep  (February 21.2017)
  4. All About Darts  (February 23.2017)
  5. Quilting the Lining  (February 28 2017)
  6. Invisible Zipper’s  (March 2 2017)
  7. Waistbands  (March 7.2017)
  8. Hemming & Fringe  (March 9 2017)
  9. Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group! 

DIY Project: How to Sew Fleece Texting Gloves

DIY Project: How to Sew Fleece Texting Gloves

texting gloves angela wolfThis is a fun and easy sewing project; sewing fleece texting gloves.  You know I can’t resist coming up with a few fun gifts items to sew. How about a pair of texting gloves! I don’t know about you, but I really get annoyed when I have to take off my gloves in order to answer my phone, text, or check an email. Instead of buying gloves and cutting off the fingertips, I decided to whip up a pair of custom gloves. These are easy and fast to sew, not to mention you can customize how tight and tall you want them and not worry about your rings getting in the way.  Did I mention they are GREAT for fishing!

The video below walks you through the entire process, including another glimpse at the V-Sonic Pen Pal feature on the Brother Dreamweaver XE.  In short, here are the steps:

1.  Measure around your knuckles, this will be the width of your gloves.

2.  Measure from your knuckles up your wrist and come up with a length measurement.

3.  Chalk mark your stitch lines, making sure to block out the area for your thumb.

4.  Stitch and press your seam allowance open.

5.  Fold the glove in half so the folded edge is at your knuckles.text gloves Angela Wolf

6.  Hand stitch the thumb hole closed.

7.   Serge the raw edge.

That’s it!  You can add beading, decorative stitching, embroidery … by the way, if you add embroidery, do so before you sew the gloves together.  This is such an easy project.  Show everyone how creative you are and post photo’s on my facebook, Instagram, and pinterest of your new gloves.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers and stay warm!

 

 

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

www.AngelaWolfPatterns.com

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