Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 4: Sewing & Fitting Darts

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 4: Sewing & Fitting Darts

Darts have a unique role in clothing.  The obvious reason for adding darts would be for fitting purposes, but they are also used as a design element.  After you try on your muslin, you might find that you need to add additional darts to the front or back waist – this is common if you have a tiny waist.

Any easy way to determine if you will need to add darts is to measure your waist and hips.  A standard pattern will have the waist and hips with a 10 inch difference.

For example:  your natural waist measurement is 26″ and your hips are 40″

A standard pattern would have 40″ hips with a 30″ waist, you would probably need to add 2 darts in order to take in that extra 4″ or your waistband would have a big gap.  Get the idea 🙂

TRANSFERRING DARTS TO THE FABRIC

 

  • Start by clipping small notches at the waistband at each dart location: a snip at each dart opening.

 

 

 

  • Place a pin through all the layers of muslin and fabric at the tip of the dart

 

 

 

 

 

  • On the wrong side of the fabric, find the pin marking the tip of the dart

 

 

 

 

  • Fold the fabric with right sides together at the dart location

 

 

 

 

  • Match up the snips at the waistline

 

 

 

Sewing the Darts

 

 

  • Start stitching at the largest part of the dart

 

 

 

  • When you get toward the tip of the dart, instead of back-stitching, shorten the stitch length and stitch.  This is less bulk than back-stitching.

 

Pressing Darts

Pressing is the most important part of sewing!  Here is a “Dressmaker Ham”.   On the main side of the pressing ham, the curve matches the curve of a dart.  Why not just press the dart flat on the ironing board?  Because the point of the dart is to accommodate your curves, so you need to press the same curve. Remember to use a lot of steam and the tailors clapper for a crisp edge.

Angela Wolf’s Weekly Facebook Live Show … Lets Talk Dart’s

In case you missed last week’s show, I discussed fitting darts on a dress form and couture sewing tips for altering the curve of the dart for your shape. Click on the video below …

Fringe Skirt Sewalong

It’s not too late to join the fringe skirt sewalong!  Here is the full list of lessons.  See you in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group for comments and questions!  Can’t wait to see your skirts coming together!!!

Cheers,

Let's Talk Darts!

Angela Wolf's Live Facebook Show - Let's Talk Darts

Posted by Angela Wolf on Friday, February 24, 2017

The Fringe Skirt Sewalong Schedule:

  1. Fabric & Sourcing (February 10. 2017)
  2. Fitting & Patternhacking  (February 16. 2017)
  3. Cutting & Prep  (February 21. 2017)
  4. All About Darts  (February 23. 2017)
  5. Quilting the Lining  (February 28. 2017)
  6. Invisible Zipper’s  (March 2. 2017)
  7. Waistbands  (March 7. 2017)
  8. Hemming & Fringe  (March 9. 2017)
  9. Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group! 

Video Tutorial on How to Clean a Dirty Iron!

Video Tutorial on How to Clean a Dirty Iron!

Welcome to Ask Angela where your questions get answered in detail! This weeks question is from  Glenda and you can watch the video above (click here if you don’t see the video).   You will find a tutorial on how to clean a dirty iron face and even a  preview of my favorite steam iron.

Leave me a comment below with your experience cleaning irons and if you have a favorite iron you must share with the rest of us!  Feel free to submit a question for an upcoming episode.

Cheers,

Angela Wolf

angela wolf pressing 1

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Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 4: Sewing & Fitting Darts

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Which Iron for Perfect Pressing and Professional Sewing Results …

Which Iron for Perfect Pressing and Professional Sewing Results …

I recall a class I taught years ago, one of the students gave me a review “great class, she is a pressing fanatic!”  Well, that is true.  In reality, pressing is what makes your sewing look professional.  I thought I would share how I have my studio set up:

angela wolf pressing 2

My all time favorite iron is the Hot Steam SGB-600 and I can’t believe how long I went without splurging on such a reasonably priced powerhouse steam iron.  This iron plugs into a standard outlet (make sure to check that when researching commercial steam irons) and has a water container that holds almost an entire gallon of distilled water.  The water container is attached to a wall and then the hose needs to hang from the ceiling or a high point.  I have ceiling tiles in my studio and I am using clips that would typically hold a plant, I think I found them at Ace Hardware.

angela wolf pressing 5

The iron came with the rubber mat, which is nice!  I added the Iron Shoe which allows you press ANYTHING and it won’t leave shiny marks – even on cheap satin and poly!  I will share more about that later.

One more thing, this iron has a powerful burst of steam and it DOES NOT leak, yeah!  Have you ever ruined fabric  from a leaky iron?  Um, this brings back a memory … years ago, I was making a custom suit for a client.  Just visualize a rich colored brown fabric – silk, wool blend.  My iron was having a bad day and a few drips (or I should say a burst of drips) later the suit ended up in the trash.  Very expensive fabric, but I couldn’t get the spots out!  I have had this iron for quite a while and have never had as much as a drop.  

angela wolf pressing 3

Did I mention, I can’t stand irons that automatically turn off!  What a waste of time, it’s never hot when you need it.  That being said I do keep around a couple inexpensive Rowenta’s for applying interfacing.  They are easy to clean, very hot, and don’t usually leak (I say that with a squint in my eye as every iron seems to have its own personality, although out of about 30 Rowenta’s I only had 2 that dripped and 1 that caught on fire – another eventful day in the studio!).

Tip: keep a tube of Ez-Off Iron cleaner around – perfect for removing interfacing gook!

Do you have a favorite iron or a dripping horror story to share?

Cheers,

Angela Wolf

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