Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 3: Fabric Cutting & Layout

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 3: Fabric Cutting & Layout

Laying Out the Pattern & Fabric

We are onto step 3 of the Fringe Skirt Sewalong!  Laying out the pattern and cutting the fabric.  This step is one of the most important steps, because if the fabric is cut off-grain or the fringe cut with the wrong weave the skirt could end up being not so fabulous, if you know what I mean 🙂

Check the Fringe Layout

 

Check the fabric to see which side has the fringe edge you like the most.  Keep in mind this could be the crosswise grainline or lengthwise grainline, or combine them both. Pull away a few strands of the weave in the fabric to see what is left.  Is the fringe full, colorful, all one color … take a look at the samples below:

 

Keep in mind, the first layer of fringe is attached to the skirt, so layout the skirt pattern the direction where the tweed will look the best.

Laying out the Pattern

Layout the fabric in one layer (instead of folded).  This will allow you to make sure the grainline is straight and you won’t run the risk of the fabric shifting underneath.  An easy way to layout the pattern so the fabric patterns matches at the side seam is to line up the hemlines next to each other as shown below.

 

 

 

If you are short on fabric or find out you like the fringe cut in a different direction than expected, the fringe pattern piece can be cut into sections as long as you keep the length of the fringe.

Cutting the Lining – Quilted or Bagged Lining

If you are sewing the skirt with a basic lining as the instructions with the pattern indicate, cut the #3 front and #4 back lining pieces of the pattern.   If you are going to add a touch of couture and planning on quilting the lining, lay out each pattern piece and cut the lining larger as shown below.  The lining will be trimmed after each pattern piece is quilted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See you in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group for comments and questions!  Can’t wait to see your skirts coming together!!!

Cheers,

PREVIOUS LESSON

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The Fringe Skirt Sewalong Schedule:

  1. Fabric & Sourcing (February 10. 2017)
  2. Fitting & Patternhacking  (February 16. 2017)
  3. Cutting & Prep  (February 21. 2017)
  4. All About Darts  (February 23. 2017)
  5. Quilting the Lining  (February 28. 2017)
  6. Invisible Zipper’s  (March 2. 2017)
  7. Waistbands  (March 7. 2017)
  8. Hemming & Fringe  (March 9. 2017)
  9. Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group! 

How to Make Covered Buttons

All About Buttons! Embellishing is one of my favorite things to do, in fact sometimes I even add touches to ready-to-wear garments.  One of the easiest ways to restyle is to change the buttons.  Even better, your own custom covered buttons!  From simple to couture,...

TIPS ON HOW TO SEW FAUX LEATHER!

Leather is a major trend this season and continues on into the spring, yes leather for spring and summer!  Here are a few tips to get you started: TIP 1. FABRIC Check the fabric for flaws, especially in faux leather you might find scratches or cuts that you will need...

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 2: Fitting & Altering Skirt Patterns

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 2: Fitting & Altering Skirt Patterns

Record Your Measurements


Waist: this is your natural waist measurement and you can find this by bending sideway slightly and you will feel the indentation at the waistline

High Hip or Fullest Part of Stomach: somewhere between the natural waistline and hips, it’s different in each of us depending on our body shape

Hips: measure hips at the fullest part

Length: from waistline to where you want skirt to be hemmed – take this measuring from the center front of your body

 

Compare Your Measurements to the Pattern


If you look closely on the pattern front you will see two circles with some numbers (shown above). These represent the exact measurements of that specific area when the garment is completed.  For the fringe skirt you will find the exact waist measurement and exact hip measurement.  Use this as a guide when choosing the size of pattern to start with.  Take your hip and waist measurements, add the amount of ease (I prefer 1″ to 2″ for this style when using non-stretch fabric), and use this measurement to choose the size on the pattern to start with.

Adjusting the Length


This skirt can be any length you want!  To shorten or lengthen follow the steps below.  If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern in the hip or stomach area, follow the same steps, but draw the line across the pattern in the area that needs adjusting..

  1. Draw a line across the pattern below the hips, parallel to the grainline. Cut across the line and spread the pattern the amount you want to lengthen.

2.  Add paper to the pattern to fill the gap and true the seam lines. To make the skirt shorter, fold the pattern along the pink line.

Adjusting the Entire Pattern Larger or Smaller


This pattern goes up to a size 16. If you want to alter the pattern for a size larger than 16, determine the amount that needs to be added to the pattern.  Let’s say we need to add 4” to the overall width.  This will mean we need to add 2” to the front and 2” to the back.  (To make the pattern smaller, follow the same steps and instead of spreading the pattern at the designated areas, decrease the amount as needed.)

 

  1.  Draw a line from the waist to the hem, parallel to the grainline on the front #1 pattern piece.

2. Cut along the pink line and spread the pattern 1” (the pattern is on the fold, by adding 1” we are really adding 2” to the entire front piece.  Do the same for the front lining #3 pattern piece, back pattern piece #2, and back lining piece #4.

Adjust the waistband the same way.  Keeping with the example for an overall 4” adjustment:

  • Waistband Pattern #5 – spread pattern 4”
  • Waistband Pattern #6 – spread pattern 2”
  • Fringe Trim Pattern #7 – spread pattern 2”

 

 

Adjusting the Pattern for a Round Tummy


If you try on the muslin of the skirt pattern and its too tight in the stomach area and the hemline rides higher in the front than the back, this is the pattern alteration for you.  The changes will add width and length to the pattern in the area needed.

This is the same alteration that would be used for the back pattern piece if you need more room in the tush 🙂

  1. Draw a line across the pattern (in the stomach area) as shown.

3. Cut into the dart area, leaving a hinge at the edge of the first line. Depending on how much the pattern will be extended, you might need to cut a second dart area as shown.

2. Cut across the line, leaving a hinge at the waistline.

4. Spread out the darts until the center front is parallel to the grainline.

5. True the waistline and draw a new center front line, using the top pattern piece as the guide. The amount extended will need to be added to the waistband and fringe pattern pieces.

These are some common pattern alterations needed for the fringe skirt pattern. Be sure to join the Angela Wolf Patterns Facebook group to share photos, ask questions, and click here to be notified by email when each blog post goes up for the Fringe skirt sewalong!

Cheers,

The Fringe Skirt Sewalong Schedule:

  1. Fabric & Sourcing (February 10. 2017)
  2. Fitting & Patternhacking  (February 16. 2017)
  3. Cutting & Prep  (February 21. 2017)
  4. All About Darts  (February 23. 2017)
  5. Quilting the Lining  (February 28. 2017)
  6. Invisible Zipper’s  (March 2. 2017)
  7. Waistbands  (March 7. 2017)
  8. Hemming & Fringe  (March 9. 2017)
  9. Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group! 

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 1: Choosing Fabrics

Fringe Skirt Sewalong Part 1: Choosing Fabrics

The Fringe Skirt Pattern


The Fringe Skirt Pattern: The Angela Wolf Fringe Skirt Pattern is available here in print and digital format. You can also find the pattern at many local retailers.

Garment Fabric: tweed, boucle, join the facebook group of resources on choosing fabrics.

Lining: Any lightweight fabric will work for the lining polyester, acetate, satin, cotton – my favorite is bemberg rayon, silk charmeuse, and china silk.  If you plan on adding a touch of couture by quilting the lining choose a natural fiber fabric for the lining.

Interfacing: A lightweight fusi-knit interfacing is used in the zipper area and in the waistband

Notions: 9″ invisible zipper, hook and eye, universal all purpose thread or silk thread, hand sewing needle, pins, scissors, sewing machine needle size 80/12, awl or something to unravel the fabric to make the tweed, zipper foot,

 

Fabrics & Supplies


The fringe on the skirt is made with three layers of fabric. A tweed or boucle is an ideal fabric for this pattern, simply because it’s easy to unravel the fabric as shown below.

 Pre-Shrink the Fabrics


It’s important to pre-shrink the fabrics before cutting, especially if the fabric is a natural fiber.  Do this by steam pressing.  You can also take the fabric to the dry cleaners and ask them to “steam press” the fabric.  Note: Just dry cleaning will not pre-shrink the fabric, it has to be STEAM PRESSED.  If you plan on washing and drying the finished skirt, then wash and dry the fabric the same way.

Join Angela Wolf’s Private Facebook Group!


We are all sharing fabric sources in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group. Join the fun 🙂

The Sewalong Schedule:

  1. Fabric & Sourcing (February 10.2017)
  2. Fitting & Patternhacking  (February 16.2017)
  3. Cutting & Prep  (February 21.2017)
  4. All About Darts  (February 23.2017)
  5. Quilting the Lining  (February 28 2017)
  6. Invisible Zipper’s  (March 2 2017)
  7. Waistbands  (March 7.2017)
  8. Hemming & Fringe  (March 9 2017)
  9. Show off in the Angela Wolf Facebook Group! 

Learn to Sew Custom Removable Shoulder Pads

Learn to Sew Custom Removable Shoulder Pads

Ask Angela …: There are countless women like me who must have the same question to ask, so I’ll make an attempt to speak for the group. After reaching those golden years, we start to wonder why our clothes — especially shirts and blouses — seem to have lost all sense of shape. We might just as well be wearing ponchos because our collective shoulders have gradually disappeared over the years. How about a hint on making conservative shoulder pads . . . not like the 80’s kind and not just for jackets/coats and blazers. I would like something that can be used with casual or dress shirts and blouses, so it should not be too bulky.
Sure hope you can address this problem — I’ve seen you on It’s Sew Easy many times and feel that if anybody can solve this issue, it is Angela.
Sincerely,
Sarah
P.S. My next project will be creating a bra with suspenders to keep it in place. Any ideas?

Sarah from Ohio

This was a great question from Sarah, and although I’m not going to talk about making your own shoulder pads, I am going to give you a few tips that have worked for other clients of mine in the past.

All of us have different body shapes, meaning I might not need the same thickness of shoulder pad as you or maybe I don’t need extra padding at all.  With that being said, there are just as many sizes and styles of shoulder pads.

Do you remember the shoulder pads of the 80s – they were very, very, VERY LARGE! In fact, I’m pretty sure the shoulders of the jackets extended at least 2 inches past the actual edge of any female’s shoulder.  I always laugh at some of the old photos where I am wearing enormously huge shoulder pads – my head looks SO small! 🙂

Take a look at these two shoulder pads. Both are considered a raglan shoulder pad, meaning that part of the shoulder pad will be directly on your shoulder and a small part of the shoulder pad will extend past your shoulder to fill in the sleeve cap.  These are typically used for jackets, but the smaller one will work in tops as well.

This shoulder pad is very thin and a perfect option for blouses and tops.  It gives that soft edge to your shoulder and evens out your profile, without standing out that you are wearing shoulder pads..

It can get rather expensive to add shoulder pads to every top that you own, not to mention shoulder pads turn out disastrously after being washed.  So why not design your own removable shoulder pads!

You will need:

1” wide Hook & Loop tape; which comes in a variety of colors including beige, black, foliage green, olive drab, and white

Shoulder pad options I would consider:

Hand Sewing Needle and Thread

CHOOSING A SHOULDER PAD

Shoulder pads are listed by thickness and length.  The thickness is the height of the shoulder pad, so if you are looking for the bare minimal to even out the shoulder area – start with the ¼” thick shoulder pad.  For unlined jackets and sweaters consider using the raglan shoulder pads (which is what I will be using here). For knit tops and blouses, choose a flatter shoulder pad that won’t extend into the sleeve cap but the straight edge will line up with the edge of your shoulder.

PREPARE HOOK AND LOOP TAPE

Take a close look at the hook and loop tape.  There is a softer side (which will be attached to your garments) usually referred to as the loop side.  Then, there is the hook side that is (more…)

Sewing Tutorial: Hemming Pants with Cuffs

Sewing Tutorial: Hemming Pants with Cuffs

Although I teach three Tailoring Ready-to-Wear classes on Craftsy, there are a few alterations that many students ask about that were not included in the classes.  One of the most common questions: “How do I hem pants with a cuff?”  Hemming cuffed pants is very simple, but its important to pay attention to the measurements or you run the risk of hemming the pants too short.

To get started these are the supplies from WAWAK SEWING you will need:

Let’s Get Started … Hemming Cuffs!

STEP 1:   Mark the hem. Try on the pants and turn up each pant leg.  Mark the bottom edge of the new hemline with chalk.
STEP 2:  Measure the amount to be hemmed: measure from the original hemline to the chalk mark.
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Designer Tip: Be sure to measure both legs, as quite often there is a difference!
Step 3: Measure the width of the original cuff. (more…)

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